DIY Vacuum Former

Last month Tog hosted Science Hack Day Dublin. A weekend where 80 makers took over the space to build all sorts of projects. A group of Tog members got together to make a home made vacuum former.

The idea came about while chatting on our IRC channel about what tools we should add next to our workshop. As just recently a got new CNC , we where looking for something we could build in a weekend and we landed on a vacuum former.

Starting off on the Saturday of the Hack Day, we formed a team to bring our idea to reality. After checking out some YouTube videos we formed a basic design.

 

img_20161119_141412

Once we had the design, we slit the team up into three. One worked with the laser cutter to make the box. One worked with the CNC machine to make a frame to hold the plastic. Final the person worked with our electric oven to figure out the settings to melt the plastic.

Someone had the idea of drilling the holes by hand on the top of the box. Such a waste of time. So many holes we should just have laser cut them.

img_20161119_192707

After a few hours all the parts where ready for our first test. It did not take us long to think of what our first object should be. A video of the inaugural us of the vacuum former is below.

 

 

Check out our gallery for photos of some of the things we have vac’ed.

img_20161120_132653

 

Parts We Used

  • Cookworks Mini Oven
  • Shopvac
  • Lasercut Box (Download our design here)
  • CNC Frame (Download our design here rename to .dxf)
  • HIPS Plastic

First cuts with TOG’s DIY CNC router

img_20161101_201537

A few months ago we’ve mentioned a DIY build of a CNC router. The project turned out to be more complicated than we anticipated. The steel-based construction is not very forgiving, and the large size of the machine doesn’t help. Still, due to all the help from many members we managed to overcome a number of difficulties and do a few test engravings in MDF.

MDF is not a difficult material to mill – the most noticeable problems are the awful dust and the fluff around the edges of the cut.  The furry edge is easily fixed using sand paper, but the dust will probably require some more drastic measures in order to protect our lungs. Eventually we’re planning to cut and engrave a variety of materials, many of which have interesting properties but are incompatible with our laser cutter.

Visit us during one of our Monday CAD nights to see the new machine in action or in the video below.

 

Continue reading “First cuts with TOG’s DIY CNC router”

Rebuilding an Ebike Battery

ebike-batteryA few of our members and visitors use Ebikes. We were presented with an Ebike battery which had a dead cell. The plan was to replace the cell with a new one. This is not ideal, since you end up with a mix of old and new cells, but the balance circuit should make it usable. On further investigation we found that there were a number of dead cells. So we set about rebuilding the whole battery with new 10Ah cells.

The cells are 10Ah LiFePO4 type…. 12 of them in all. The new ones are a little bigger than the old ones, so we will have to modify the case a bit, but that won’t be a show stopper. Drop in during our fortnightly electronics night to see the build in action.

Forge Maintenance

forgeA few years ago, we built a forge based on Larry Zoeller’s designs. We’ve used it a few times and now it’s time that the forge itself gets a bit of maintenance. This is nothing more than recoating the inside with a refractory coating to help keep the insulation in good shape. We did a quick test fire after letting it dry for a week and all was well.

Machining Brass

brassThe cooker door wouldn’t snap closed properly. A quick disassembly of the hinges showed that a brass disc had a flat spot from years of wear and tear. Replacements were no longer available. Time to make some new ones on the lathe.

Took some measurements and started with a length of brass stock. Turned it down to the required diameter, then drilled a 4mm centre hole. Next cut a groove and parted off the new disc from the bar.

Brass is interesting to work with. It kinda crumbles off in fine particles, unlike steel. Drop in sometime and have a look at the lathe.

Project: Seven Segment Display and an Arduino Mega

Seven Segment Display standing on a table

Everyone has one in their house, a clock on your VCR you never set, a timer on your cooker or your microwave, a digital clock. The seven segments of LEDs that light up to form numbers are made up of Seven Segment Displays.

There are all sorts of projects you might want to add these to, but this is a basic introduction with one number.

The pins on these displays may differ, on mine, the first pin did nothing and the middle pin on the top and bottom connected to ground. Each of the other pins was a positive for a different segment on the display.

Seven Segment Display in Breadbord

First things first, look up the data sheet of your display and figure out how much current and voltage it should take, no point burning it out. You will probably need to hook up a resister for safety.

I’m using an Arduino Mega, but you could do it with any Arduino boards or a Raspberry Pi.

Put the display in a breadboard so each pin can be powered separately and first wire up the ground with a resister, then connect it to the Arduino ground.

Then, connect a jumper line to the 3.5V on the Arduino and connect it to each pin on the Display in turn. If everything works, each segment should light up as you power it up.

Seven Segment Display in Breadboard, being tested

To make it more interesting, wire up each segment to a digital pin on the board. For Arduino, I used pins 1-7, which is a bit interesting.

Seven Segment Display with all pins connected to Arduino

Firstly, you can’t connect pin 0 or pin 1 to anything while the sketch is uploading to the board. Once the program is uploaded, you can then connect these pins.

I used pins 1-7, and connected them to the display, skipping the ground pins.

The below code has 2 parts, and is derived from the blink program.

 

// the setup function runs once when you press reset or power the board

void setup() {

pinMode(7, OUTPUT);

pinMode(6, OUTPUT);

pinMode(5, OUTPUT);

pinMode(4, OUTPUT);

pinMode(3, OUTPUT);

pinMode(2, OUTPUT);

pinMode(1, OUTPUT);

// for each pin we want to use, we need to set it to output.

}

// the loop function runs over and over again forever

void loop() {

digitalWrite(7, HIGH); // turn on whatever segment is connected to pin 7

digitalWrite(6, LOW); // turn off whatever segment is connected to pin 6

digitalWrite(5, HIGH);

digitalWrite(4, LOW);

digitalWrite(3, HIGH);

digitalWrite(2, LOW);

digitalWrite(2, HIGH);

delay(4000); // wait for a 4 seconds

digitalWrite(7, LOW); // now whichever segment is connected to pin 7 will turn off

digitalWrite(6, HIGH); // now whichever segment is connected to 6 will turn on

digitalWrite(5, LOW);

digitalWrite(4, HIGH);

digitalWrite(3, LOW);

digitalWrite(2, HIGH);

digitalWrite(1, LOW);

delay(4000); // wait for 4 seconds

}

The display is really simple, it is made up of seven LEDs and you can turn on and off each part at the same time to from numbers. This is a basic introduction, you can add more displays for more advanced features.