Project: Skull Radio Box

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This blog post is written by our member Jeffrey Roe about his Skull Radio Box Project.

The Skull Radio Box came out of the frustration demonstrating the bone conduction kits at the Big Day Out. The kits are great for workshops but in a show and tell type of stand they just are not user friendly. They need an audio source hooked into them and just not appealing to members of the public to bite on a metal rod with lots of wires hanging out of it.

 

 

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I first found out about bone conduction from David McKeown at Artek Circle (Photographed right) and tried it out with a spoon in my mouth.  Months later, I then worked with Sinead Mc Donald to create the Guzman Box. Internally, it used a Kitronik amplifier kit to create the bone conduction effect. During its stay in the Lexicon Library for Soundings, the TBA820M IC burned out twice. The main cause was due to heat. The IC had no heatsync and would burn if left on for too long.  Jump forward a few months, I used bone conduction again during Spectral Forms a week long residence in the Science Gallery. We looked for a fun way to play back the audio of people’s brain waves, that we were capturing with an EEG unit. We again faced problems with the kits being too quiet for the loud gallery setting. Finally, we used them as a demo at the Big Day Out, people loved the demo but not the look of the device. All these led to creating a stand alone, demo dubbed the Skull Radio Box.

 

The Build

IMG_20150404_191128.jpgIMG-20150405-WA0008.jpegThe case was the first part of the project.  I started out with Maker case website to create the general box. I then moved into Inkscape to do all the other parts of the design. After a few prototypes in cardboard, I was ready to cut out the final box in  5mm plywood. As the project came out of the laser cutter it looked perfect but when putting together the box with the finger joints, it was clear it did not fit together. Two hours later, using a file,  sand paper and just a little hot glue, the box was all together.

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TOG Laser is alive

So finally after 7 months of running the laser, we are getting around to making a blog post.

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Our Lasersaur 13.04 is working well have been able to cut lots and lots of projects. Come and check it out we have some stuff you can take away with you. Also if you have any projects you would like to try out let us know in comments or join our mailing list.

 

Video:

Hive game using real insects

So I came across these interesting insect specimens encased in acrylic, and thought to myself that these would make snazzy custom hive pieces.

First step was to measure up the acrylic blocks for size then take a photo and bring it into inkscape. Draw a rectangle that lines up with the acrylic block edges, select the picture and rectangle and go Object->Clip->Set to crop the image to the edges of the block. Then scale down the image to the real block size in mm.

These blocks are 45mm by 30mm so I create a green rectangle to those dimensions then center the picture in this green box.

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To create the hexagon go the pentagon&star icon, then enter 6 sides and drop the hexagon near the picture. I’ve made the hexagon 30mm from face to face so that it maximizes the area of the block. Line up the hexagon in red with the parallel sides in line with the width.

The original tiles are either 25mm or 38mm depending on the version, but as these are custom it’s an acceptable compromise between the two.

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Another compromise is that the insect icons have the head pointing towards the flat face in the original but we point them to the corner, otherwise we end up cutting into the body of the insect.

Once happy with the alignment, set the bed area in inkscape to 1220mm wide by 610 high in File->Document properties. This is a prerequisite for using our Lasersaur, but it also makes it easier then to place where the piece will be cut relative to the bed.

Save your work out and remove all the elements except for the green rectangle. We save off this rectangle as rect.svg then do the same for the red hexagon that we center centered with the rectangle. Start up the lasersaur app or connect to it as a web service and import in the rectangle. Add it to the queue and set the feed rate to 1500 and the laser power to1% . What we are doing here is just scoring the mdf destruction sheet so we can line up the acrylic block.

Once the rectangle is scored do the same for the hexagon.

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Then take one of the acrylic blocks and spray mount the back of it. (More on this later). Align the block with the scored square and press down lightly.

Send the hexagon back into the lasersaur queue but set it to 3 passes with each pass at 50% power at 300mm/min feed rate. This should get through the 8 to 10 mm of acrylic.

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Once the heddy fumes have extracted out from the bed we can open it and examine the piece. It should just lift from the mdf with minor force.

A few more runs and we have the start of our own custom set of Hive pieces.

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As the spray mount is tricky to remove, some white spirits will wipe it off quite easily. The trouble is that if you machine or laser cut acrylic it can set up micro striations in the material (crazing) that show up once you apply a solvent or glue. A workaround could be to stick down the block with double sided sticky tape.

Another issue is that you need to get the feed rate & power balance so that you don’t scorch the edge. You can tidy this up by using a scrape or stanley blade to clean up the edges, then flame polish the edge with an oxy-acetylene torch.

Pizza

pizza oven 2Every pizza joint around here knows TOG. You hardly ever have to explain to them where we are. So it was high time that we made our own pizza oven in the yard.

Loads of pics here

First we had to set some cavity blocks. There’s quite a slope on TOG’s yard so the left side was about 20mm lower than the right. The left side blocks had to be raised to compensate. After the bottom 4 blocks were set, the others were simply stacked on top. Lengths of timber, painted with bitumen paint for waterproofing, were laid across the top, Now we had a suitable platform to build on.

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The metal lathe’s shiny new cover

The lathe in its new cover near its friend the tiny geodesic dome.
The lathe in its new cover near its friend the tiny geodesic dome.

A few of TOG’s members got together and put a metal lathe in the workshop. The workshop is the most appropriate place for it, but also the place it’s most likely to gather dust (from other people’s projects, the lathe will get plenty of use). So the first project for the lathe was to build it a cover.
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